My thoughts on Textile History by Margy Norrish

Hairpin Lace

Hairpin Lace
Hairpin Lace (also called hairpin crochet, fork crochet and
Maltese lace which is not to be confused with Maltese bobbin lace) is an open
lace strip or braid.  It is made on a
U-shaped pin and worked with a crochet hook. 
It is easy too work and useful for edgings, collars and cuffs.
The forks could be held with the opening up or down as the pattern required.
19thC women used their hairpins (hence the name). Commercial
pins also called “forks” (or staples) were available.
Advertisement – Simplex MFG.CO., Bridgeport, Conn
Home Needlework Magazine, January, 1916
Eventually, by the 1930’s adjustable, rectangular forks made
it possible to make fine, narrow strips using cotton threads or heavier, wider
bands using wool.
Also available were forks with three or more prongs, which
enabled the maker to create loops of various lengths within the same strip.

While this type of lace-making has gone out of style there are
still patterns and forks available.   Examples of the hairpin edgings are most
frequently found  on vintage handkerchiefs
,
Home Needlework Magazine, June, 1916
Learn New Crafts, Book No. 408, J.&P. Coats LTD., Paisley, Scotland

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