All That Glitters
Remember that game ”Twenty Questions” that always began with
the question animal, vegetable or mineral?
We sometimes forget that textile fibers are not only of animal or
vegetable origin, but may be in the mineral category. The use of metals in fabric can be traced far into history. Metallic threads indicated wealth and status
and required expert craftsmen to embellish clothing for royalty and religious
clergy.
the question animal, vegetable or mineral?
We sometimes forget that textile fibers are not only of animal or
vegetable origin, but may be in the mineral category. The use of metals in fabric can be traced far into history. Metallic threads indicated wealth and status
and required expert craftsmen to embellish clothing for royalty and religious
clergy.
The use of metal as fiber elements was accomplished in two
ways. Incredibly thin sheets of gold,
silver and copper were wrapped around cores of linen, silk or cotton
threads. If the metallic thread was too
brittle to be used for embroider they were couched on the surface of the
textile. Sometimes the couching threads
were visible and added to the overall glittery effect, which is referred to as
“or nue”. Very fine metallic thread was
often used in Chinese and Ottoman embroideries. With the spread of the Ottoman Empire, the use of metals was
introduced into Europe and could be found in medieval textiles, some of which
could weigh in excess of 40 pounds. Called “drap d’or”, golden fabrics
flourished until the late 1700’s.
ways. Incredibly thin sheets of gold,
silver and copper were wrapped around cores of linen, silk or cotton
threads. If the metallic thread was too
brittle to be used for embroider they were couched on the surface of the
textile. Sometimes the couching threads
were visible and added to the overall glittery effect, which is referred to as
“or nue”. Very fine metallic thread was
often used in Chinese and Ottoman embroideries. With the spread of the Ottoman Empire, the use of metals was
introduced into Europe and could be found in medieval textiles, some of which
could weigh in excess of 40 pounds. Called “drap d’or”, golden fabrics
flourished until the late 1700’s.
 |
| Oriental pillow cover with gold thread embroidery |
 |
| Victorian table cover with metallic embroidery |
 |
| These metal weavings were created by Evan Riter. Riter received a Masters of Fine Ats in fiber, textile, and weaving arts from Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, MI. |
The second method of creating metallic fabrics from true
metals is weaving strips of thin metal (with a wire warp) or using metal wire
with fiber such as linen. Because the
wire warp is particularly strong a variety of materials such as plastic, paper
in addition to the wire weft can be used.
Through electrolysis, many colors can be produced. Titanium, for
example, can be made into blue, brown, pink and green hues. One advantage of using metal elements is
that the resultant fabrics can be manipulated and shaped after weaving.
metals is weaving strips of thin metal (with a wire warp) or using metal wire
with fiber such as linen. Because the
wire warp is particularly strong a variety of materials such as plastic, paper
in addition to the wire weft can be used.
Through electrolysis, many colors can be produced. Titanium, for
example, can be made into blue, brown, pink and green hues. One advantage of using metal elements is
that the resultant fabrics can be manipulated and shaped after weaving.
 |
| Arline Fisch Collar, machine knit copper wire wuth silver accents |
 |
| Arline Fisch is a Professor Emerita of Art at San Diego State University and was named a “Living Treasure of California” in the field of American Crafts
 Modern mats with machine made metallic trim  |
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